Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions’ financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the U.S.
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
• It increases the comfort level indoors.
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house.

Click Read More to continue reading the article….

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical receptacles/outlets;
• mail slots;
• around pipes and wires;
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
• attic hatches;
• fireplace dampers;
• inadequate weatherstripping around doors;
• baseboards;
• window frames; and
• switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:

• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

• low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have “1.6 GPF” marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
• vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
• Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
• Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home’s interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
• light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows. Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and
• light tubes. Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home’s total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they’re closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren’t already in place.
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don’t work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
• Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame.
• Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans.
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.

10. Change the way you do laundry.

• Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load.
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean.
• Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.

Electricity is an important part of any home, but it can also be a significant hazard. While many electrical fires and injuries are due to appliances or electrical systems malfunctioning, a greater portion of problems are from misuse and poor maintenance or appliances, as well as overloaded circuits and extension cords and incorrect wiring.

Here are some of the top electrical safety hazards:

1. Extension cords under carpet: This can pose a big problem if the cord is under the carpet, becomes damaged, and then overheats and catches fire. The damage can be caused from foot traffic, furniture, or general wear and tear, and it won’t be readily visible. This can be especially bad in home where the cord is forgotten about and deteriorates, so extension cords under carpet are a major electrical safety hazard.
2. Electrical appliances: Any appliance you can plug in needs to be treated with care and common sense. Never leave paper or plastic close to a hot appliance or store appliances so they may tip over. Always unplug appliances when not in use and check periodically for corroded wires, cracked insulation, defective parts, and anything else that might not work properly. Also, remember to use caution with space heaters, electric blankets, and be sure to keep plugged in appliances away from water.
3. Electrical outlets and cords: Electrical outlets can be especially unsafe for young children and safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets, as well as electrical safety emphasized to children. Also, the use of electrical cords should be minimal and there should be enough electrical capacity in outlets. It is recommended that all electrical outlets are three-hole grounded outlets. If an outlet is located in the bathroom or outdoors, it should have a GFI or Ground Fault Interrupter outlet.
4. Electrical wiring: All electrical wiring in your house should be up to wiring safety code. In addition, if you have had small rodents in your home or the walls, the wires will need to be checked to ensure they are not being damaged.
5. Power Lines: Many people aren’t aware of overhead and underground power lines. Unfortunately, there have been electrocutions when people accidently put an object in the way of a power line, such as ladders, antennas, kites, and poles. Tress and bushes can also be a hazard, as well as animals who get caught in trees near power lines. Power lines are dangerous to touch, whether they are standing straight up or fallen down.

Keep electrical safety hazardous in check and be sure to also check out the article for Electrical Safety more information.

Asbestos was once common in home building, but as we know by now, exposure to it can pose a potential danger. Asbestos is basically a fiber that when cut or damaged can produce toxins that can cause serious illness, including lung cancer. If you’re wondering about asbestos in your home, here are a couple indicators, as well as what to do about it.

The good news is that asbestos exposure has been for the most part eliminated from use in homes. However, for years it was used in a number of materials, including fireproofing material, insulation, and flooring.  In the 1970s and 80s asbestos exposure was minimized and today the materials that contain asbestos will have a label. In older homes asbestos might be more of a problem.

Where Asbestos is Located

According to the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors (NACHI), asbestos may be contained in a number of areas in the home, including:

• Ÿ  Roofing and siding shingles
• Ÿ  Insulation in houses built between 1930 and 1950
• Ÿ  Insulation in oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets
• Ÿ  Vinyl floor tiles
• Ÿ  Material or tape that is coated over hot water and steam pipes in older homes
• Ÿ  Textured paint on walls in ceilings before 1977
• Ÿ  Artificial ash and embers in gas fireplaces
• Ÿ  Older products, such as stove-top pads
• Ÿ  Walls and floors around wood burning stoves

When Dealing with Asbestos

Keep in mind that asbestos exposure becomes a problem only when the fibers are released. Improper repair or removal of this substance can cause a potential health risk. When it doubt, it is probably better to leave it alone, but consult a profession if you have concerns.

If you suspect asbestos might be in your home, check the material for any indication of damage—and if it is in good condition, leave it alone. Asbestos poses no danger unless the fibers are inhaled. To check for a disturbance, do not touch, rub, or handle the area or material; instead look for signs of damage, such as from water or tears, or abrasion.

Work with a trained asbestos professional or contractors if you have concerns or are considering removal. This person will know the steps to take to minimize the risk. This is especially important when it comes to home remodeling. An asbestos professional can take a sample of the material to test it.

For more information read the article Asbestos in Your Home.

More information on Asbestos:

Asbestos and Mesothelioma

Asbestos exposure is the primary cause of mesothelioma. PleuralMesothelioma.com has the most up to date and comprehensive information about Pleural Mesothelioma on the web today.  With information ranging from a complete list of symptoms, to treatment options, as well as mesothelioma survival rate. http://www.pleuralmesothelioma.com/

Fires in the home are a common and also preventable problem.

According to the article Fire Safety in the Home, most home fires are avoidable with some common sense and smart planning. Here are some tips that you can use to keep your home safe:

1. Test smoke alarm batteries. Experts say to check batteries once a month. Having a working smoke alarm is one of the most important home fire safety devices for homes.
2. Unplug space heaters. Never leave a space heater turned on or even plugged in when you are not home or when you are sleeping. It’s not worth the risk.
3. Put a fire extinguisher in the kitchen. Having a fire extinguisher you can access quickly can help you put out a kitchen fire before it gets worse. Store it under the sink and read the directions so you know how to use it. Fire extinguishers are also handy to have near bedrooms—plus the canister can be used to break windows if needed.
4. Don’t leave lit candles unattended. Candles can be extremely dangerous, especially when placed near an object that could catch fire. Candle flames can quickly heighten or be knocked over.
5. Unplug portable electric items. Not only will you be charged for electricity for items that are plugged in, but a faulty device can wreck havoc. Unplug things like hair dryers, curling irons, coffee makers, and other small appliances when not in use.

In addition, if a fire does occur, here are some home fires safety tips to make sure that you and your family make it out of the house safely:

1. Know your escape path. No one ever expects that a fire is going to occur, but take a moment and make sure you have a way to escape, whether it’s through a window on the ground floor or crawling to the front door, know your route ahead of time. Remember with a fire that smoke spreads quickly and may require you to be on your hands and knees.
2. Check for hot doorknobs. Heat on the doorknob indicates that fire could be close by, and opening the door could supply additional oxygen, contributing to a worse and even fatal problem.
3. Specify a meeting place. Let everyone in your family and especially children know where you would gather outside in case of an emergency.
4. Stop, drop, and roll. This basic home fire safety tip is one to remember in a time of panic. If your clothing catches on fire, running will only make it worse, so stop, drop, and roll should be your mantra.
5. Call 911 or another emergency number. Make sure you have this number on speed dial in your phone.

As a home inspector I find that basements are susceptible to water damage and that homeowners might not realize there are some simple fixes that can sometimes prevent this problem. This problem of water leakage happens most often when the exterior parts of the home are draining improperly.

There are a few simple ways to keep water out of your basement and keep it as good as new. The key is to start with the outside of the house and pay attention to where water is draining. If it appears to be flowing inward toward the foundation of the house, it’s important to fix this problem before it gets worse. Here are some tips:

• Fix the Grading: When the ground slopes around the house—called grading—it causes rain water to spill toward the basement, rather than away. The cure is to get the water flowing in the opposite direction. This can be easily fixed with simple landscaping fixes. You don’t need a big slope to get the water to flow in the right direction, but a small adjustment in the grading, such as using dirt, rocks, and woodchips does the trick. These elements can create an angle that is better suited to keep water out of your basement.
• Install or Repair Gutters: When rainwater or melting snow accumulates on the roof of a house without gutters, it tends to flow off the roof into big puddles in concentrated areas. The water usually ends up seeping toward the foundation and can end up producing moisture in the basement.
• Install Downspouts: Downspouts are just as important, if not more, than gutters. Downspouts are the vertical pipes that carry rainwater down to the ground level and spill it away from the house. They prevent the water from gathering in gutters and gushing straight down. Gutters should have the proper slope to a downspout and there shouldn’t be anything that causes the water to get backed up.

From my perspective as an inspector, I find that moisture problems in basements often build up for years without repair. Since most homeowners spend the majority of their time in the main levels of the house, the basement rooms can get neglected and major damage can occur. When it comes to keeping water out of your basement, don’t let yourself get caught off guard.

Passing your home inspection is an important part of selling a house. Before the inspection takes place there are a few steps you can take to make sure your home is in good shape. Here are some of the top problem areas and tips for making sure your home passes inspection with flying colors.

1. Plumbing. This is one area that will certainly get scrutinized by the home inspector. Make sure there is no leaking, drainage problems, or dirty looking water from rusted pipes. Consider installing new fixtures if you’re home is older—not only will this help it look nicer, but it will make sure that everything works properly.
2. Roof. A leaky roof is something to watch out for. The home inspector will report on the condition of your roof, so you want to make sure it’s in good repair. Fix shingles that are curling or missing and clean your gutters and pipes to make sure drainage is occurring properly.
3. Electrical. All of the wiring, panels, and circuit breakers must meet current standards. Make sure all outlets work. If you suspect the electrical system is inferior or dangerous, best practice is to hire an electrician rather than doing it yourself.
4. Structure. If your floors are uneven or there are big foundation issues, these problems will be hard to hide. At the least, fix cosmetic issues, such as cracks in the walls that can be repaired and try to make the home more attractive to a buyer despite the structural issues.
5. Moisture. Mold and mildew, which are often found in damp basements, indicate possible drainage problems. Try giving the room better ventilation with a fan or dehumidifier. If bad odors or mold continue, you might need fixes in your basement foundation.

Lastly, review the condition of your home early on in the selling process. Before you put it on the market, if you want top dollar it’s best to make sure everything is in solid condition. While homebuyers may not actually be able to see all of the repairs, if a home appears to be well maintained, the value goes up and buyers will reward you. In the end you want to not only pass your home inspection, but also want to show you’ve fixed problems and improved it cosmetically.

As you get ready to have your dream home expected, keep in mind that there are certain parameters as to what the home inspector can do. Because a home inspection is mostly visual, the process is not completely fool proof and there is always an inherent risk with buying a property. As you keep this in mind, take a look at some of the things the home inspector can and can’t do during the home inspection.

A Home Inspector Can:

Visually do a thorough and professional check that all the systems in the house are working properly, including the inside and outside of the home. This includes checking water, heating/cooling, electrical systems, and turning appliances on to check if they work. This might also include crawl spaces, going on the roof or through small spaces, but not doing anything that is deemed hazardous.

Check for serious problems in safety and construction, such as amateur electrical wiring (also known as handyman wiring), cheap fixes for plumbing, safety of appliances, gas leaks, roof and attic issues, foundation problems, and the overall physical condition of the interior and exterior of the house. Another thing the home inspector can do is go into the attic and give a thorough visual check without causing damage. Basically, the idea is to alert the buyer of any safety issues, defects, and problems in need of immediate attention. 

A Home Inspector Can’t:

Use invasive techniques. Things that require disassembling, going underground or causing defection to the home are not part of a home inspection. These might include checking the insulation by going within the walls or examining the pipes under the home by going underground. Nothing gets taken apart or damaged.

Note every small problem. The home inspection is for alerting the buy to major defects. Things like a small scratch on the wall or testing out an oven by cooking something inside it are not going to be noted. However, if a wall has obvious signs of water damage or the oven does not turn on or has bad wiring, those things will be noted. The home inspection is the major things that need to be repaired or are hazardous.

Turn on gas or water in a vacant home. If a home is unoccupied and gas or water is shut off, the home inspector will not test or turn these items on. This includes items that have been unplugged, such as the garage door opener, air conditioner, furnace, hot water tank, etc. The reason for this is the inspector cannot be liable for any damage that might occur.  For example, if the air conditioner was over heating and if the inspector does a test, this could cause a fire. The inspector is not trained to fix these problems, but to do a thorough check.

Getting Your Money’s Worth

A good home inspection is well worth it to make sure your dream home is ready for you. Make sure you know what to expect and ask questions to make sure you know what to expect. In addition, check out this article other things that home inspectors won’t tell you.

There are some nightmare scenarios of buyers who skipped the home inspection process and found themselves the owners of a house that is falling apart. If you remember the 1986 movie, “The Money Pit,” a couple falls in love with their dream home, buys it, and then experiences just about every possible problem. One of the most memorable scenes is when Tom Hanks falls through a hole in the floor that is covered by an area rug. This is, of course, an exaggeration of a home that is in severe disarray, but it’s also a symbol of the seriousness of what can happen when you don’t get a home inspection. Let’s look at some of the home inspection nightmares that could be lurking in your dream house.

The website for this old house, provides photos of some home inspection nightmares, many of which are just under the surface. Without a serious examination, some really basic things could be found to be in error. These might include some of the following:

•  If the electrical wiring is faulty or was done by an amateur, this could indicate serious fire danger and the need to rewire completely.
• Leaky faucets or pipes that are improperly repaired might pose a problem. Or, worse, the septic system might have a drainage problem and fail. I’m sure you don’t need to know what kind of inconvenience that might mean.
• The heating or cooling system could be inefficient, causing a need to invest in repairs or having higher billing costs as a homeowner.
• You could be buying a home that is a hotspot for moisture and mildew, quickening deterioration of the walls and overall structure. 
•  The appliances could be in disarray and need to be completely upgraded.

The home inspection process should not be compromised. It is the best and most convenient way to prevent investing in a property that is problematic from the start. Having an assessment of home inspection nightmares will also help you gauge whether the home is worth buying. Remember, you really can’t just rely on your eyes when it comes to buying a home. A home may appear to be wonderful on the surface, but without a thorough inspection, you just don’t know what you’re buying.

It’s the day before the home inspection and you’re wondering how to prepare. The home inspector will be canvassing the home and you want the process to go smoothly. Whether you’re in a new construction home, an older home, or having an investment property inspected, here are a few things to do to prepare for the home inspection.

Make sure the power and utilities are turned on.  A big part of a home inspection is checking to see everything is working properly. Tests will be done to inspect electrical, gas appliances, and plumbing systems, including water faucets, toilets, heating or air conditioning (depending on season), kitchen appliances, lights, and anything else that turns on. Having the utilities and pilot light turned on in advance will ensure that the inspection won’t have to be delayed or rescheduled.

Get the home in working order.  Spend some time walking through the home and check things that you can fix in advance, like making sure light bulbs work (both inside and out), windows open and shut, window screens are installed, and that doors open and close properly.

Clean the house and make it easy to walk through.  The home inspector will be following a checklist and even though cleanliness isn’t on the list, a clean home will make the inspection much easier. The home inspector will be going from room to room, opening doors, checking appliances, and working carefully to review conditions. Vacuuming and dusting can help with the ease of inspection. Even though a clean home is optional, it will make the process go smoother.

Move any obstacles in advance.  If there is stuff to step over or obstacles in the way of maneuvering around the home, make sure to move these things in advance. Anything that is in front of the furnace, water heater, or air conditioner needs to be moved so the home inspector can get up close. Locations like the attic, crawl spaces, and attic will also need to be accessed and unlocked if necessary. Move furniture or clean closets so that the home inspector has a clear path.

Have your paper work of repairs or remodeling handy and show the home inspector.  Just like if you were selling a car, the home buyer will be curious about the repairs and work that have already been done to the home. The home inspector will include information about these items, which is especially helpful when it comes to answering questions about upgrades to appliances, problem areas, or remodeling. The more information about what has been done, the better.

The home inspector will come prepared with everything that’s needed for the inspection, including tools and paperwork. Make sure the home is ready and prepared for a thorough inspection.

Having a roof over your head is absolutely essential to a livable home. It is also the area of your home that stands to get the most abuse from outside elements. Keeping your roof in good repair and maintaining it over the years will help you when it comes to increasing the value of your home. A good roof inspection will make sure you have an insulated home and prevent eventual structural damage.

In most places a roof should last up 20 years or longer, depending on the materials used and harsh elements from the weather, such as snow and hail. A damaged roof can create problems that you might not be able to see without a roof inspection. Things like roof leaks happen over time, usually toward the end of the roof’s life. A roof in disrepair can create moisture and mold intrusions that silently cause damage. Remember, just inspecting the surface of the roof isn’t enough.

As a home inspector, I do the roof inspection from a few different angles and locations, scanning it from below, using a ladder, and from inside the attic. When I climb up to the roof I am looking at the condition of the shingles or other roofing material, but my inspection doesn’t stop there. The condition of a roof also shows in the attic area or ceiling below the roof space and even around skylights. As for the roof itself, when there is damaged shingles or tar, this could indicate a problem area. Shingles that are cracking, missing, or curled should be further inspected and replaced. With a low sloping roof, you want to make sure water is draining and not pooling up in areas. A sagging roof or discoloration could also indicate problems. 

Water damage from a leaky room can have an unfortunate domino effect. A problem roof is going to affect a lot of things in a house, such as heating and cooling bills, which will rise when there is not adequate insulation. Because the roof is literally the main support structure, its upkeep should be a top priority.

For maintenance of your own roof, make sure to keep it free of buildup from debris and clean and inspect it at least once a year both from the outside and inside the attic. If you suspect you need a new roof or have a problem area, get it fixed sooner rather than later.